Our
farewell to Cape Town included a final gathering downtown in the Company
Gardens and many hugs and tears, and repeated long goodbyes.
This
group has been unafraid to sing, unafraid to lead, and a culminating highlight
of the two weeks was the night before at the mamas’ braai when the Roosevelt
students gathered the mamas and the teachers in the yard and sang for us—“Lean
on Me,” “Stimela,” and “Yahkalipi koko”; they were leaping and jumping in
excitement while the Isilimela teachers were shouting at each other in disbelief
and joy, look at what the Americans are doing, our music, in IsiXhosa, singing
with the students, correcting words in a total joining together. It was
thrilling and so lovely, the encapsulation of what this group has been about.
At Amy Biehl’s
memorial today, I went over to talk to two men who were watching us from the
gas station. Amy Biehl was a white Fulbright student was killed dropping off
friends in Gugulethu the day before she was headed back to California in the
turbulent moment when apartheid was just ending: her car was attacked by a mob
and she was killed at the site of the memorial. The two men told me, if it was
okay, they wanted a picture with all of us. I said, Probably—but first you have
to tell why you want to, and I want you to be honest about it. They said they
had moved from the Eastern Cape four years ago, and in all that time, they had
never seen white people in Gugulethu before. I invited them to come, tell our
group again why we were interesting to them, and take a picture. There was a
great exchange of welcome and gratitude and questions. Amy Biehl was killed 35
years ago. Apartheid ended 35 years ago. But these men taught us so clearly the
past is not past. Amos said what we have repeatedly also heard in Langa: we are
not black and white—we are one people.
In Kirstenbosch
Gardens today in our terminal reflection, our students expressed such gratitude
and ambitions for their broadened hearts and opened arms. They’ve learned how
they want to be treated, how willingly they want to love. They want to be more
observant, to train themselves to see as incisively at home as they have in
South Africa. Samantha learned the difference between tourism and fully
inhabiting oneself within a community. Sophia said that memory is a product of
life and that remembering life as you’re living it is what it means to be truly
living. Meg’s mama taught her to treat every stranger with kindness—a greeting,
warmth, a sharing from one’s plate—because you never know about tomorrow.

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